{ Worldly Wines + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 6 }

In Vino Veritas means “In wine there is truth”. During our six week journey, we explored wines from around the world and learned the “truth” about how food, wine and language blend together. Prior to taking this class, I did not venture too much out of California for my wine selections. Now my spirited adventurous side is in full gear. I find myself looking at the wine list at restaurants and searching for a wine that is from France, Italy, and Australia or beyond.

This was our last class of the series and Suzanne was gracious enough to open her lovely home in Berkeley. She has a charming one hundred year old bungalow style home that has many lovely touches. I arrived about thirty minutes early since I had to visit a client in Emeryville, and helped Suzanne prepare the fava beans for the Farro dish. Class was slated to begin at six o’clock and everyone arrived on time. Chad brought an array of wines from around the world along with some of my fellow students selected some special wines to share.

The evening began with “mix and mingle” time along with a glass of Drusian Prosecco di Valdobbiadene from the Veneto region of Italy. It was festive and delicious and would be wonderful as a cocktail served with St. Germaine. Notes of green apples, floral, apricot and toasty bread like quality was present along with a creamy texture on the palate. We enjoyed simple appetizers of radishes from the farmers market, garlic toast with olive oil and coppa. Sometimes, the simplest things in life are the best.

Before we sat down to eat, we enjoyed a Rocaberdi Vino Blanco from Catalunya Spain. It had a slight spritzy quality that reinforced the minerality undertones. It is 80% Macabeo and 20% Xarel-lo grapes that are used in the production of cava. It was bright with notes of white flowers, lemon, lime and apple. One wine I found to be quite tasty and interesting was Mengoba Blanca from Godello and Dona Blanca. It is from the Bierzo region of Spain and had soft delicate fruit, pear and melon tones yet it was finely tuned and gently expressive. It would pair wonderful with salty or spicy foods with its slight sweet character.

One of the more unique wines of the evening was a Spanish wine called Viña Tondonia Rosé Gran Reserva 1998 from the López de Heredia family. The grape varietals are Tempranillo (30%), Garnacho (60%) and Viura (10%). It was a bit “jarring” at first and rather off putting. It possessed a liquor, cassis and oxidized quality, almost like sherry or a rusty penny. Smooth and fresh with body and complexity due to barrel ageing. For the main course we enjoyed roasted duck breasts that were double tied and perfectly roasted. The side was Farro with purple asparagus, peas, fava beans, morel mushrooms, stock, and lemon and parmesan cheese. It was very tasty, hearty and satisfying.

More wine was the name of the game tonight. Since it was our last class, the experimentation and chatter was rampant. A French red called Savigny-les-Beaune from the Pimentiers vineyard was bright, with ripe red fruit along with balanced acidity and delicate tannins. Nice wine for drinking and enjoying with food. Joe and Meg brought different wines during the course and they have yet to disappoint. The wine they shared was no exception – it was Brunello di Montalcino from Italy. It is a bright wine with dark red fruit. The nose offers raspberry, red cherry, smokey undertones with firm tannins and floral flavors. Also enjoyed a Ridge Syrah Granache that was quite delicious.  As the Europeans customarily do, they enjoy salad at the end of the meal. We enjoyed an arugula salad with ricotta salata and a light vinaigrette dressing. Perfect as a palate cleanser and digestive for the meal.

Bouncing from country to country we are now in Austria with a wine called Berger Zweigelt which is a red table wine. It is a balance of ripe fruit, layers of plum, berry fruit and delightful forward acidity with plenty of spice. This wine is relatively unknown in the United States and if you can try it, I would recommend you give it a whirl. We now adventure to Italy with a special bottle that another student Lisa shared with all of us. It is Taurasi Radici with intense red cherry, charred volcanic tones, licorice, soft chewy tannins and a full bodied silky long finish. Suzanne shared a Domaine Tempier Bandol 1998, which was a very special wine and absolutely divine. Lastly for the review of wines is Castello Di Neive Dolcetto d’Alba from Italy. A sweet and jammy wine that reminds you of drinking Welch’s grace juice. Quite tasty from the piedmont region and perfect as an ending wine for the night.

As in life, all good things must come to an end. This class exceeded my expectations and literally changed how I think about wine, food and the conversation sitting at the table. Food and wine interchange and weave through our lives. Some of the simplest foods are magnified with the right wine and visa versa. My recommendation to everyone is to get outside your comfort zone with wine and try new things. Purchase wines from Italy, France, United States, and Australia and beyond. Wine doesn’t need to cost an “arm and a leg” to be good. Once you understand the regions and varietals, the possibilities are endless. Thank you Chad and Suzanne for a truly wonderful experience and sharing all of your knowledge and talents with all of us.

Check out the entire "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" series:

James Beard's Onion Sandwich + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 1
Italian Wine Bar/Crostini Recipe + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 2
Blending + Bordeaux + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 3
Burgundy Wines + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 4
Rhone Valley + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 5

Mushroom Tart with Black Truffle Oil

My long time friend Rosanna, who by the way is a personal chef, came over to my house to cook together. We both have an immense affinity for food and wine, so to cook together all day and talk about the subjects we love; it was a perfect foodie day. Not knowing that my kitchen is pretty well stocked with all things imaginable, she carried a lot of items with her. Of course, any great chef does have their own set of knives and she was no exception.

I adore any type of tart that is made from a sheet of puff pastry – okay who doesn’t love that buttery and flakey crust. Not sure if I know anyone. Thought it would be wonderful to have simple but delicious food to enjoy during the day. For some time, I have wanted to make this tart from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques. Her book gives so many inspirational ideas and recipes. I adapted the recipe by adding a few of my own touches. It turned out amazing. We enjoyed a light oak and buttery chardonnay with the tart which paired perfectly. You could also try a beautiful pinot noir – the earthiness of the mushrooms and tasting notes of the pinot noir are perfect pairings together.

Mushroom Tart with Black Truffle Oil

1 Sheet puff pastry
2 Egg yolks
1 lb. Mushrooms (shitake, Crimini, portabella) cleaned and sliced
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 T. Olive oil
2 T. Butter
1 C. Slice scallions
2 t. Fresh thyme leaves
½ C. Ricotta
¼ C. Crème Fraiche
¼ lb. Gruyere, sliced thin
¼ C. Chives, chopped small
Black truffle oil for drizzling on top
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Let puff pastry defrost. You will run the rolling pin over it enough to flatten a bit. Score with a knife to almost the bottom to form a one inch boarder. This will enable the tart to puff around the edges. Return to the refrigerator to keep cool until ready to prepare and cook.

In a large skillet, add the olive oil and butter. Let melt together over medium heat, then add the mushrooms and turn up the heat to medium high. Add salt and pepper and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes until fragrant, tender and a bit crisp. Add the thyme and garlic and cook for 30 more seconds, then remove from the heat.

In a bowl, add the ricotta, crème Fraiche and one egg yolk and mix well together. Season with a bit of salt and pepper.

Mix the remaining egg yolk with 1 teaspoon of water. Using a pastry brush, brush the egg mixture just around the edges of the puff pastry. This will give the edges a golden color.

Spread the ricotta and crème Fraiche mixture just to the inner edge and top with the sliced gruyere. Spoon the mushroom mixture on top of the gruyere and be careful to keep behind the egg washed boarder. Bake the tart 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven and drizzle with the truffle oil and sprinkle with the fresh cut chives. Slice, serve and enjoy!

Warm Brussels Sprouts Salad

I have wanted to make this Warm Brussels Sprouts Salad for quite a while. I adore Brussels sprouts and the idea of adding a fragrant vinaigrette and bacon, just put it over the edge for me. This salad is a signature dish at Pizza Antica in Lafayette and unfortunately is seasonal. Lucky for me, Trader Joe’s is still selling Brussels sprouts, so I picked up a couple bags over the long holiday weekend.

If you love Brussels sprouts, you will enjoy this salad. The bacon flavor along with the crunch of the handmade croutons with earthy Brussels sprouts is a combination made in heaven. I like to have the Brussels golden brown by pan searing them in a large saute pan, then adding the other ingredients.  Almost a meal in itself, however, try adding a nice grilled chicken breast or piece of salmon and you have a complete meal. Bon Appetite!

Warm Brussels Sprouts Salad

Vinaigrette

1 large garlic clove, minced
1 large shallot, minced
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
3 Tbsp red wine vinegar
7 T olive oil
1 T Flat leaf parsley, chopped fine
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste

Warm Brussels Sprouts Salad

6 Slices Applewood Bacon
1 Large onion, diced
6 slices sourdough bread, cut into 1/2" squares
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil + 2 t. olive oil
4 C. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste

To make the vinaigrette, soak the garlic, shallots, and thyme in vinegar for roughly 45 minutes. After soaking, slowly whisk in the oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper and reserve covered.

Cut bacon into 1/2" squares and cook over low heat until almost crisp; add 2 t. olive oil, drain off the fat & save and set aside bacon.

Heat 2 T. of the bacon drippings until just smoking and cook onions over medium-high heat until golden brown; drain and set aside.

Toss cubed bread with extra-virgin olive oil and toast in a 300-degree oven until golden brown and crispy (approximately 20-25 minutes); allow to cool to room temperature and set aside.

In a large sauté pan, heat remaining bacon drippings until almost smoking and add sprouts; cook for about 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown, season with salt and pepper.

Add reserved onions and bacon and warm until hot; turn off burner, add vinaigrette and toss to distribute. Then add the croutons and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve either individually or in a large bowl.

Adapted from Chef Gordon Drysdale at Pizza Antica

Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg

Restaurant Club was in full swing with our trip to Healdsburg. Our dining adventure and reservations were at Dry Creek Kitchen – the Charlie Palmer signature restaurant in California’s wine county. He creates a menu that celebrates the bounty of the land, utilizing artesian products and extraordinary wines. The recipes are uncomplicated yet elegantly seasonal and inspired by the local wine country vibe.

Our reservation was for 12:15pm and we were seated almost immediately. We chose to enjoy the interior of the restaurant versus dining al fresco. We had the best waiter and he even inquired if we had any food allergies – which is going above and beyond. A young man came around with a basket of three different kinds of bread – we all chose to enjoy one of each. The butter was to die for – handmade at Dry Creek Kitchen and a hint of olive oil was added – simply divine.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 









We began with a glass of Anaba Coriol from Sonoma Valley which is a Rhone blend of 48% Roussanne, 30% Viognier, 12% Marsanne and 10% Granache Blanc. The wine is aged for eleven months in French oak barrels of which 20% are new French oak. This wine has a floral, tea like aroma with hints of honey and pear. It is a medium bodied blend with notes of peach, citrus, a bit of spice and a subtle minerality was an extremely bright and satisfying wine. This is one incredible wine - a must try!

We chose our starters from the wonderful menu and selected the Chilled Asparagus Soup with spicy shrimp salad with espelette oil. The baby shrimp were sweet and tender and paired beautifully with the vibrant color and flavor of the asparagus. Next was the Grilled Chicken Paillard Salad with petite watercress, toasted hazelnuts, slow baked grapes and red verjus gastrique. This salad was off the chart delicious. The chicken was extremely thin and layered the bottom of the plate. It was topped with quenelles of fluffy blue cheese and the grapes, nuts and greens with a bit of radicchio. Each and every bite was heaven on a fork and our taste buds.
 

We each selected a different entrée, so we could nibble and taste a variety of flavors. We began with Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi with cauliflower mousseline, pickled purple cauliflower and house made ricotta salata. It was not a heavy laden sauced pasta dish, which enhanced the flavors and they popped off the plate. The mousseline was perfect, just wished there was a bit more on the plate to enjoy.

Is there nothing better these days than a slider? We ordered the American Kobe Mini Burgers on toasted brioche, with black winter truffle aioli and crispy Yukon gold potatoes. The burger is prepared on the rare side but you can order however you prefer it. It just melted in your mouth and embodied so many flavors. Lastly we had the Fresh Pappardelle Pasta with house made chorizo, manila clams and fennel confit. The chorizo was full of flavor and melted in your mouth.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 








You are probably thinking – how do they have room for dessert? We did not think we would but when we pursued the menu, two items stood out. We shared the Coffee Crème Caramel with buttermilk beignets and cinnamon whipped cream. This little decadent dessert was absolutely supreme. The tiny deep fried buttermilk beignets literally melted in your mouth and left you craving more. It was rich, creamy and luscious with delicate flavors of coffee, cream and cinnamon that blended together magically.

Along side, we enjoyed Valrhona Chocolate Bundino with Guinness ice cream, salted caramel ganache and house made pretzels. The Guinness ice cream was a stand out and complimented the entire dessert. Hard to believe the pretzels were hand made, but they were divine and crunchy with just the right hint of salt.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 









We enjoyed a divine lunch, stimulating conversation, terrific weather, wonderful shopping and great people watching. We reminisced over the restaurants that we have experienced so far and we all agreed that Dry Creek Kitchen was ranked toward the top. Next time it is my turn to pick the dining destination – where should we go – any ideas?

Dry Creek Kitchen
Hotel Healdsburg
317 Healdsburg Avenue
Healdsburg, CA 95448
Tel: 707.431.0330

Pork Tenderloin with Oven Roasted Grape Tomatoes

Sometimes the simplest ingredients put together make the very best combinations. The effortlessness of flavors matched together by enhancing through the roasting process, layers the experience for the diner. Pork tenderloin can be made hundreds of ways, but my favorite way is to pan sear and then finish in the oven. It comes out almost perfect every time. Be careful to not overcook the pork – a ting pink in the meat is perfection. Pork is such a lean meat that absorbs whatever flavor you add to it.

Typically I will whip out my favorite chutney to serve along side the pork. Wanted to make something a bit different yet still healthy, so I decided to roast the basket full of grape tomatoes I had in the refrigerator. Once roasted, the sweetness of the tomato is pronounced and perfect with just that hint of garlic. Have a bite of pork with the roasted tomato and nirvana on a fork will transpire.

Pork Tenderloin with Oven Roasted Grape Tomatoes

1 Pork tenderloin
Olive oil
Napa Style Roasted Garlic Rub or your favorite rub

Take the tenderloin out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Prep the tenderloin by removing the fat and silver skin from the meat. Cover all sides of the tenderloin with the rub. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in an ovenproof skillet and sear the tenderloin over medium-high heat to brown all sides, about 3 minutes in total. Place skillet in the oven and roast 25 to 30 minutes, until internal temperature is 145 degrees. Remove from the oven and let rest 5 minutes prior to slicing.

2 C. Grape tomatoes
2 T. Olive oil
1/2 t. Garlic powder
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large baking dish add all the ingredients and mix well. Cook for about 30 minutes until the tomatoes are tender.

To prepare, lay the sliced pork tenderloin on a warm platter and spoon the roasted tomatoes over the middle. Serve.

Kumquat Marmalade and Ricotta Crostini

Kumquats are a curious little fruit. Almost like an oversized orange for a Barbie doll. They are often eaten raw and have a sweet rind and a juicy center which is sour and salty. These little gems are considered ripe when they reach a yellowish-orange color and just a slight hint of green. It is native to south Asian and the Asia Pacific and symbolizes good luck in China and other Asian countries. Often used to make kumquat preserves, marmalade or jelly, but also can be sliced and added to salads. Great to garnish a cocktail or made into a liqueur.

I found pints of these tiny treasures at Trader Joe’s and have always wanted to make kumquat marmalade and 2010 is the year. Typically a couple times a month I will whip up a batch of scones and enjoy orange marmalade with them. My first batch of marmalade is ready for scones this weekend.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




In the meantime, I wanted to try something different and put a slight twist on how I used the kumquat marmalade. I toasted a thin slice of sourdough baguette, let cool and spread with ricotta cheese and then a spoonful of the handmade kumquat marmalade. The flavor combination was out of this world – the crunch of baguette, creaminess of the ricotta and sweet/sour combination of the kumquat marmalade was perfect.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Kumquat Marmalade

1 lb. 3 oz. Kumquats
1 Lemon, zest and juice
1 ½ C. Sugar
1 ½ C. Water

Cut the kumquats in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Then use a sharp chef’s knife and cut into thin slices. Add the prepared kumquats to a heavy non-reactive pot, lemon juice and zest along with the water. Over the pan, and simmer for 25 minutes until the fruit is soft and tender.

Add the sugar, and stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Turn the heat up and cook at a full rolling boil for 5 minutes and test for a set. When the marmalade has reached the setting point, ladle into hot sterilized jars, seal and label.

{ Rhone Valley + "Thinking, Eating and Drinking" Part 5 }

In Southern France sits the Rhone region and produces many wines under various Appellation d’origine controle (AOC). The Rhone is sectioned into two sub-regions with distinct vinicultural traditions, the Northern Rhone and the Southern Rhone. The northern sub-region produces red wines from the Syrah grape and white wines from Viognier grapes. Other white grapes produced are Marsanne and Roussanne. The southern region produces an assortment of red, white and rose wines, often blends of several grapes such as in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

The northern Rhone is characterized by harsh winters but warm summers. The appellations in the northern Rhone from north to south are: Cote-Rotie, Condrieu, Chateau-Grillet, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Cornas and Saint-Peray.Northern Rhone reds are often identified by their signature aromas of green olive and smoky bacon.

The southern Rhone is more of a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot summers. The most famous red wine is Chateauneuf-du-Pape and is a blending of varieties of wine, both red and white. Southern Rhone reds may include Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Carignan and Cinsault. They are full bodied, contains tannins when young and have aromas of prune, foliage, chocolate and ripe dark fruit. A few of the southern Rhone appellations include: Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Vivarais, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rasteau and Gigondas.

We began our evening’s journey through the Rhone valley with a 2009 Domaine Rouge-Bleu “Dentelle” Rose. This wine is 55% Carignan and 45% Grenache from the Vin de Pays de Mediterranee. Tasting notes include cherry and black currant flavors with hints of smoke. Asparagus is one of those incredibly hard vegetables to pair with any wine however, Suzanne hit a home run with this wine. She roasted asparagus and garnished with crispy pancetta.

Next was the 2008 Domaine Rouge-blue “Dentelle” and it was paired with sauted baby shitake mushrooms with thyme and minced garlic. Tossed at the last minute with some wonderful fleur de sel, it was perfect with this well balanced wine from the south of France. Our third bottle had the cork removed and we poured our wine, only to find out when we smelled it, the wine was corked. If you open a bottle of wine that smells like a musty trunk or wet dog, it is most likely corked. The cork in the bottle and the oak barrels in which wine was aged can expose the wine to a fungus induced by the natural compound trichloranisole (TCA). I would suggest that you discard that bottle and move onto a new one to enjoy.

Staying in the Northern region, we enjoyed a wine from the Hermitage appellation, called Laurent Combier Crozes-Hermitage which was a 2008 vintage. It is 100% syrah with a perfume quality, hints of mineral, smoky black fruit, spicy and clean. Let this wine sit and open up for a fantastic tasting experience. We enjoyed this wine with oven roasted fingerling potatoes mixed with fennel and scarlet turnips, tossed with olive oil and fresh thyme. A long and slow cooked roast pork shoulder with a crispy caramelized crust was accompanied with the roasted veggies. The crunchy crust from the pork was to die for - so rich, crispy and full of delicious flavor.

Two fellow students in the class, Meg and Joe have an affinity for wine and brought a bottle from their personal cellar. It is from Stolpman Vineyards located in Los Olivos on the California central coast and called L'Avion. This wine is 10% viognier and 90% roussanne. Full bodied, floral, honeysuckle, pear, caramel and a tiny hint of minerality are flavors and scents found in this wine. This wine paired beautifully with the roast chicken served. One of the highlight wines of the evening for me.

Nearing the end of our wine adventure we tried a 2006 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol, a commanding red, with concentrated red and dark fruit flavors, including fig, dark plum and raspberry. Remarkable tannins and acidity support the finish, which is blended with notes of chocolate and black olive. It is a blend of mourvedre and grenache grapes. The scent of this wine is a bit funky and almost like a rusty penny, but let it open and I guarantee you will enjoy.

Now at the end of our class along with almost at the end of the six week course, we enjoyed our final wine, 2005 Edmunds St. John “Wylie-Fenaughty” Syrah. It has a rich ruby color, dark berry, smoky, minerals and black olive on the nose. Cassis flavors are underscored by cracked pepper and candied licorice qualities, with soft tannins. The smoke and dark fruit qualities repeat on the finish, which could only be syrah. The wine is very controlled, with sweet, big tannins encompassing dark fruit and plenty of acidity. This wine is produced in El Dorado Hills near the American River.

As the saying goes “save the best for last” and indeed that is what we have planned to accomplish at next weeks class. Suzanne has graciously opened her home for the entire class to be held for our last one of the six week series. Chad plans on sharing very special and unique wines with us and Suzanne will prepare some exciting food pairings for us to enjoy. I can’t wait to share the last class of the series with all of you. Until then…… Cheers!